It is illegal to harbor wildlife for more than 24 hours in most states, and every effort should be made to reunite a healthy raccoons with their mother or transport them to a licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator ASAP.

 

 

 

1. However, if it is necessary to intervene, always wear gloves when handling any unfamiliar animal.

 

This is especially true for raccoons, for their safety and yours, since many states require immediate euthanization of raccoons handled without gloves. Click on photos to be directed to affiliate links (proceeds are donated to Raccoon Rehabilitators nationwide).

 

 

 

 

 

2. NEVER give cow’s milk. It can be deadly for all wildlife, especially raccoons.

 

 

 

3. Stimulating to urinate and defacate

 

All eyes-closed raccoon babies need to be stimulated to urinate and defacate (preferably before and after feeding, but at least after feeding at a minimum).

 

In the wild, mama raccoons lick their babies’ genitals and anus to encourage them to potty. This can be simulated by GENTLY wiping them with a warm, wet, soft cloth (or unscented baby wipe) after each feeding to prevent toxic waste buildup in their intestines and kidneys. Please see the video below, or you can also click here to see a slight glimpse of mama raccoon starting to stimulate the baby. 

 

 

4. Warmth is critical  

 

Raccoons’ digestive systems do not work if they are cold, so giving them warm fluids or formula before they have been gently warmed to their core could be deadly.

 

The key is to warm slowly. You can use a fleece blanket or old t-shirt inside a shoebox with a desk lamp above, or a fleece blanket/old t-shirt over top of an electric heating pad, a SnuggleSafe heating pad that stays warm for up to 10 hours, or a USB heating pad for volunteers who frequently transport. If the heating pad has an auto shut off feature, be sure to set a timer to turn it back on. Set it on LOW and leave room for babies to crawl off if they get too warm. 

 

❌️ DO NOT USE HOTHAND PACKS since these can burn a young baby’s skin. Young babies with very little fur can literally ‘cook’ to death so be sure to warm slowly. Raccoon internal body temps normally run from 100° – 103°F.

 

  We recommend only the Sunbeam brand heating pad with NO auto shutoff. Other versions purchased from Temu-type sites either overheated or stopped working within weeks, so it is worth investing in the Sunbeam that can be purchased from most local Walmarts and Amazon.

            

 

You can also fill a tube sock with uncooked rice or lentils then tie a knot at the end. Microwave for one minute, check for warmth, then re-heat for another 30-60 seconds until it is slightly warmer than human body temperature. BE SURE IT IS NOT TOO HOT since it could burn a young baby’s skin (raccoons normally run 100° – 103°F), and ❌️ do NOT add essential oils or aromatics since these could potentially damage developing lungs.

 

 

You can also use a water bottle filled with hot water, cap screwed on tightly, and placed inside a sock. If using a rice sock or water bottle, be sure to re-warm every hour.

 

5. Gram Scale

 

Weighing babies is critical – it ensures you aren’t feeding more than 5-7% of their body weight (which could result in diarrhea or even death from bloat), but also provides the first indication of illness since they should be gradually gaining weight each day.

 

Scales can be purchased through Amazon, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, CVS, or Walgreens.

 

 

 

6. Hydration

 

The way to tell if an animal is dehydrated is to gently raise the skin on their neck or back to see if it stays in a “peak” (see this link for example). Dehydrated raccoons do not have the resources to digest food which can lead to painful cramping, digestive distress, and in extreme cases, organ failure.

 

All Wildlife Rehabilitators discourage against giving liquids to any wildlife since you run the risk of aspirating (accidentally getting water into their lungs), even if you already have experience with puppies or kittens. However, in emergency situations for very rural finders who can’t immediately get babies to a Rehabber, there are a couple of options.

 

❌️ NEVER FEED ANY ANIMAL ON THEIR BACK  “FOUR ON THE FLOOR”

 

A mixture of 50% Pedialyte with 50% spring water warmed to 100° – 103° for first 24 hours is most highly recommended. Pedialyte powder packets are best, since bottled Pedialyte spoils after 48 hours (even if refrigerated). Warmed Gatorade can also be used in a pinch, but not recommended for long-term use. Most raccoons prefer berry flavors over the citrus ones.

 

                                                                   

 

A homemade rehydration solution can also be made by combining half a teaspoon of salt, one tablespoon of sugar or light karo syrup, and two cups of warm spring water. Warm the solution just enough to dissolve the sugar and salt, and use a dropper or syringe to SLOWLY drip tiny drops for the baby to lick so that you don’t cause them to aspirate. Even the preemie nipple flow is sometimes too much, so the syringe with raccoon tip is the best option if you have access to expedited delivery. 

 

                                 

 

 

7. Formula mixing

 

The easiest way to mix formula is warm the spring water to between 99° and 101°, mix according to manufacturer instructions, mix or shake vigorously in a protein shaker bottle, then use a strainer to ensure there are no clumps that could aspirate or choke the baby. 

 

       

 

For advanced caretakers/Rehabbers with many mouths to feed, this baby bottle warmer is a huge timesaver. The Dr. Brown’s Formula Pitcher is a lifesaver for people who work full time. We can mix a large batch of formula on our day off and freeze it in jars to thaw during the week as needed. PRO MIXING TIP: Measure out spring water, heat on stove to just before boiling when the bubbles first start to form, add formula powder to pitcher, let soak for five minutes, then mix for five minutes. We would still recommend using a strainer to fill jars to ensure there are no clumps that can cause babies to aspirate/bloat. 

                  

 

 

8. Formulas 

 

Intake:	50% Pedialyte with 50% water  OR 100% homemade electrolyte solution (see above) for first 24 hours
1st Feeding:	5 parts water, 1 part formula
2nd Feeding:	4 parts water, 1 part formula
3rd Feeding:	3 parts water, 1 part formula
4th Feeding:	2 parts water, 1 part formula
5th Feeding Onward:	1 part water, 1 part formula

 

As previously stated, even those with extensive experience bottle feeding puppies and kittens can still easily aspirate a raccoon. Once fluid gets into their lungs causing pneumonia, it is nearly impossible to reverse, even with antibiotics, and they die a slow, painful death gasping for air as mentioned in this post from Wild Heart Ranch. It is always best to reunite orphaned raccoons with their mother or get them to a licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator ASAP.

 

However, considering there are a handful of states where it is legal to care for orphaned raccoons, we would rather you have to correct information than trying to ‘wing it’. 

 

Be sure to potty and weigh the raccoon before each feeding, and only feed 5-7% of their body weight to prevent constipation, diarrhea, and especially bloat from over-feeding. Bloat is almost always irreversible and fatal.

❌️ NEVER FEED cow’s milk, Nutrivet Replacer, or human baby formula.

   

❌️ NEVER MIX FORMULA WITH PEDIALYTE.

This causes the formula to congeal, risking aspiration and bloat. It also cancels out the nutrient properties of both the formula and the Pedialyte, and could also result in dehydration from excessive sodium.

The ideas below are listed in no particular order and are not medical suggestions or meant to be construed as medical advice in any way, shape or form. They are simply ideas we are sharing based on what other raccoon pet owners and Rehabbers have used with successful outcomes over the years. Just as a parent chooses what is best to feed their children, so too do Rehabbers have their own personal preferences for what works best for their animals. 

Each product would be used at your own risk. Since Rehabbers are volunteers and pay for our own supplies with zero government assistance, as long as we reach the end goal of releasing healthy, happy kiddos back into the wild, then we should be able to select the method that works best for our sweet AirBnB temporary guests.

Evaporated Milk (50%) and Spring Water (50%)

We know, it seems completely counterintuitive since we just said NO COW’S MILK, but apparently, however this is manufactured, the enzyme in the milk that causes gastric distress does not seem to be present in evaporated milk. Those who have used it for decades swear by it for producing chonky, healthy raccoons with thick, shiny, luxurious coats. It is readily available (no shortages due to being out of stock), inexpensive, and completely removes the stress of having to mix or worry about manufacturing defects in powdered formulas. Four generations of Great Grandparents, Grandparents, Parents, and Sons/Daughters who’ve released happy raccoons to thrive in the wild can’t be wrong. 

         

 

Raw, UN-pasteurized goat milk

Again, these are only ideas, not medical suggestions. If you are unable to find a local goat farmer, or locate the unpasteurized version in a local Whole Foods or other health food store, another temporary option might be warming this version of goat milk from Walmart. 

       

 

Manna Pro Goat Kid Milk Powder

Some Rehabbers have had success mixing 50% Manna Pro Goat Kid Milk Replacer with 50% Fox Valley Raccoon, or even using straight Kid Milk powder.  Available locally at Tractor Supply, Walmart, and Petco. Be sure to strain at least twice to get the clumps out and prevent aspiration/bloat. 

       See feeding chart below to determine 5% of raccoon baby’s weight

 

 A popular favorite among many Rehabbers. Mix according to manufacturer recommendations on bag and strain twice to remove clumps and prevent aspiration/bloat. 

Colostrum (1/8 tsp per 1 cup of formula) and Fox Valley Ultraboost (1/4 cup + 3/4 cup of formula) can also be added to the heated formula, along with Bene-Bac and Fox Valley LA 200 Probiotics once the formula cools, to help add weight and boost their immune systems. Be sure to strain at least twice to get the clumps out and prevent aspiration/bloat.

                             

 

                          

Esbilac Goat’s Milk – Powder 

Some Rehabbers and raccoon pet owners have had success with both powder and liquid Esbilac Goat’s Milk, although the powder can sometimes create inconsistent creaminess regardless of prep method or water temp. Be sure to strain at least twice to get the clumps out and prevent aspiration/bloat.

Kitten Milk Replacer – Powder (not liquid)

KMR can be used in a pinch, but as of May 24, 2024, some Rehabbers nationwide have been noticing extreme gastric distress. This could potentially be a manufacturing issue or new ingredient that was added, and using it for raccoons is 100% off-label usage, but it was still brought to Pet-Ag’s attention to further investigate. Be sure to strain at least twice to get the clumps out and prevent aspiration/bloat.

Milk composition comparison courtesy of WildCare in San Rafael, CA  

 

Mixing formula

• Measure out SPRING water and heat to just barely pre-boiling, right before the bubbles start to form.
• Add formula to container/shaker.
• Add heated water and shake/stir to mix.
• Strain through a strainer as you pour into storage container.
• Allow to reconstitute in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours.
• Strain the final solution once more to ensure there are no lumps that could choke/aspirate babies.
• If not refrigerating for 12 hours, allow formula to cool to 100°-103°F before feeding.
• If refrigerating for 12 hours, reheat to 100°-103°F before feeding.  
• Too much powder can lead to constipation, so add in extra water if needed and be sure to monitor and chart their daily bowel movements so you can adjust the consistency of the formula according to what works best for their system. 

Miracle Nipple or syringe/nursing bottle to slowly drip formula for neonates 60 – 75 grams

                                 

 

Flow Level Preemie – Dr. Brown’s Preemie Slow Flow Nipple for approximately 75 – 125 grams

Flow Level 1 Nipple for approximately 125 – 175 grams

Flow Level 2 Nipple for approximately 175 – 225 grams

Flow Level 3 Nipple for approximately 225 – 325 grams

Flow Level 4 Nipple for approximately 325+ until ready to wean using formula + Cheerios or weaning custard (recipe in next section)

 

 

Feeding chart courtesy of WildCare San Rafael CA www.wildcarebayarea.org

 

Above photos courtesy of WildCare in San Rafael, CA. 

 

 

This video from licensed Rehabber Jane Hochstatter of Calamity Jane is the epitome of raccoon rehab as she feeds a gently warmed baby who started out with electrolytes and formula ramp-up. He is terrified and emaciated, trying to protect himself, yet still so desperately needing hydration and nourishment.

 

Click here, here, and here for videos of licensed Rehabber Elizabeth Pitts feeding her adorable baby raccoons.

Babies suckle on their moms throughout the day, so they also love to suckle on fingers, toys or pacifiers in between feedings. 

9. If you can’t get them to suckle

 

• Try dripping a couple of drops into their mouth via syringe to “prime the pump”.

• You can also rub a tiny bit of table syrup, Karo syrup, or agave nectar on the nipple to help kick start the first couple of feedings.

• They can also favor one nipple over another – texture, flow, every nipple seems to taste different to them – so have a few on hand to switch out.

• You can also try gently “c” clamping your hand over their muzzle and eyes, or rubbing their neck and back to make them purr and chitter. 

• They may not be hungry every two hours, so it is okay to skip one feeding as long as they are consistently putting on weight each day (Rehabbers start to get worried when they miss two feedings). 

• Don’t force it. Stop nursing when baby stops sucking vigorously, stops trying to find the nipple, or their belly feels full (but not tight).

 

10. Weaning

Once you see teeth, babies will start chewing on the bottle and be more fickle at feedings, letting you know they are ready to graduate to soft food. Feed a bottle one bottle first thing in the morning and one bottle last thing at night and in between, pour warm formula over Purina Puppy Chow to soften and see if they will eat it.

❌️ DO NOT ADD baby rice or ground oatmeal to bottles

These are nutritionally empty calories and can cause bloat/aspiration due to widening of the nipple.

The following foods work well to mix formula into or supplement at feedings:

Full-fat yogurt (Greek Gods Honey Vanilla is a huge favorite, and most prefer berry over other flavors)

Applesauce 

Fresh berries

Grapes cut in half 

❌️ DO NOT FEED CANNED/WET DOG FOOD.

❌️ DO NOT FEED CAT FOOD OF ANY KIND.

 

Feeding outside, in the bathtub (since an inch or two of water in tub also helps with bowel movements) or on puppy pads helps a ton during this messy stage! 

Puppy pads or newspaper are great for this messy stage!  

 

11. Feeding juvenile raccoons

The best foods for juvenile raccoons are those that they can find in their natural habitat. Most Rehabbers use either Purina Dog Chow (Sam’s Club has great pricing on 55 lb bags) or Tractor Supply Retriever Dog Food.  Mini-chunks are best since they are easier for raccoons to chew and digest. 

 

       

 

Additional favorites reported from Rehabbers include: 

 

Slugs, worms, dead cicadas, dried meal worms, black fly larvae 

Sautéed fish, canned tuna, canned sardines, or canned mackerel 

Raw and cooked chicken breast (rotisseries is a super favorite)

Cooked ground turkey, or turkey/chicken hot dogs

Boiled eggs broken in half or scrambled eggs with cheese

Avocados (remove pit and skin)

Peanut butter sandwich pieces (NATURAL peanut butter only – see Xylitol warning below)

Nuts (walnuts, pecans, peanuts, honey-roasted peanuts) and trail mix are huge hits!

Nutri-grain or Nature Valley bars

Bananas, banana bread, banana muffins, dried mango slices  

Peanut butter sandwiches (be sure it is natural peanut butter, see Xylitol poisoning below)

Stella & Chewy’s DuckDuckGo dehydrated nuggets

Spaghetti-O’s, pizza, lasagna – you know, usual Trash Panda fare 

Nilla wafers, vanilla cookies, mini marshmallows, honey buns, pork rinds, tater tots, french fries, pizza, and Wendy’s chicken nuggets for the RARE, OCCASIONAL treat 

 

❌️ NEVER FEED anything that contains sugar substitutes, artificial sweeteners, reduced calories, etc. to animals (or even yourself for that matter) because the chemicals in them can cause seizures and even death from Xylitol poisoning.

 

If this happens, begin immediately flushing their system by feeding warm sugar water via syringe.

 

 

12. Releasing hand-raised raccoons alone into the wild is normally a death sentence.

For those few states that allow the general public to care for wild raccoons, PLEASE do not just dump them in the wild! 

• PLEASE contact a Rehabber who can help with “wilding them up” and release with a group of other raccoons to improve their chances of survival.

• Babies spend a full year with mom learning how to assimilate into the hierarchy of other raccoons, so they will be torn to shreds by other raccoons already established in that area.

• They have no idea how to hunt for food, so they will die a long, slow, painful death from starvation, if they are not attacked by a predator or other raccoons first. 

• They have no network of other raccoons to commune with, so they will not be able to create a den to stay warm and safe from the elements.

• It can be the equivalent of dropping a 10 year old human child into a foreign country and telling them to find food, shelter, work, and money.  

It is a long, expensive, frustrating road to “wild up” a domesticated raccoon, but most Rehabbers would rather do so than risk them being torn to shreds and dying a slow, painful death in an environment that is completely foreign to them.

 

Please watch this video, it is a prime example of why a traumatized pet raccoon can NOT fend for himself.  The photos below also show what happens when they are kicked to the curb before being taught how to survive in the wild.

 

   

         

 

 

Please be a hero for wildlife. Only YOU can prevent suffering. 

 

 

Thank you for caring enough about raccoons to visit this page, and learn how to help these intelligent, wonderful little beings. If needed, additional resources for raccoon care can also be found here.